Nyonya Curry Laksa
by Limapulo - Peranakan food in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
It was lunchtime in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, and we took a taxi to a Michelin recommended restaurant called Limapulo, which is a Peranakan restaurant.
The Peranakan, or Straits Chinese culture, especially dominant in maritime trade cities like Malacca, Singapore, Penang, and Phuket, is a unique hybridization of Chinese culture with the local cultures of Maritime Southeast Asia, and the result of a centuries-long history of trade, transculturation, and interracial marriage. Also known as the "Baba Nyonya" or "Orang Cina Bukan Cina" ("a not-Chinese Chinese person"), the Peranakans developed a distinctive identity expressed through their language, clothing, architecture, and religious practices. As well, of course, through their food, which was what I had come to Limapulo to try.
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| Michelin award-winning Nyonya laksa by Limapulo, KL, Malaysia |
We started our lunch with a plate of Limapulo's signature chicken satay which was served alongside chewy rice flour balls, crispy cucumber, and a unique peanut dipping sauce sweetened with pineapple and starfruit. In neighboring Thailand, pork satay is more common, but in Malaysia, a Muslim-majority country, chicken is more popular. Although the Chinese-Malay population generally has no problem eating pork, many restaurants will either avoid serving it or offer other options so as to give more options to their customers.
The unique addition of starfruit juice and small spoonful of chili paste added a depth to the peanut sauce that I hadn't tasted before. It was rich, salty, savory, a little bit spicy, and a little bit sweet, and went really well with the marinated and grilled chicken as well as the side vegetables.
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| chicken satay with sweet and savory peanut dipping sauce |
For another side, we ordered a large serving of "lady fingers" which turned out to be a local name for okra. The okra was lightly stir-fried with a savory shrimp paste and had an amazing flavor that was savory and not at all spicy. I could have eaten the entire platter of okra myself as a main course (then again, okra is one of my favorite vegetables).
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| Malaysian okra with shrimp paste |
Limapulo’s Nyonya laksa lemak is an iconic dish, and the one which won it its writeup in the Michelin Guide. The laksa lemak is a coconut milk-based curry laksa noodle soup served over rice vermicelli and yellow noodles. The dish includes shredded chicken, prawns, fish balls and fish cake, fried tofu, tofu skin, cucumber, and a boiled egg. A spoonful of sambal chili paste served on top for a classic laksa flavor.
The curry soup is very rich and mildly sweet, and the combination of various ingredients creates a mix of flavors and textures in each spoonful. I can absolutely understand why this restaurant is so popular and why it's so crowded during lunchtime.
According to the restaurant, it takes about four hours to make a batch of curry laksa broth. The spice blend is mixed by hand, and the soup has to simmer for a long time to make sure the flavor is perfect. The restaurant only sells a limited number of 70 bowls of this time-intensive dish per day, so I highly recommend arriving early to order it!
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| curry laksa with tofu, shrimp paste, eggs, shrimp, and noodles |
Location
Limapulo is located at 50, Jalan Doraisamy, Chow Kit, 50300 Kuala Lumpur, Wilayah Persekutuan Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The restaurant is very popular - and for good reason! It can get pretty crowded if you try to eat during the lunch rush, so I recommend arriving a little early or a little later otherwise be prepared to wait a few minutes for a table. Service is quick and efficient, and even if you have to wait, you should be seated in no time.
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| Limapulo, a Michaelin award-winning Nyonya restaurant in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia |
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