Phed Phed Somtam: Amazing Papaya Salad and Issan Food in Bangkok

Amazing Somtam and Issan Food in Bangkok

by Phed Phed, Bangkok, Thailand

I've been on a real Issan food kick lately. Thailand's northeastern region is home to some of the nation's most iconic cuisine, from spicy papaya salad to sour fermented pork sausage and more. I've especially been raving about Som Tam Nua, which is still one of my favorite somtam restaurants in Bangkok. Lately, though I've also become kind of addicted to Phed Phed, a newer Issan bistro with an upscale and modern take on classic Issan cuisine.

grilled pork neck, crispy pork with green beans, and papaya salad by Phet Phet Somtam
grilled pork neck, crispy pork with green beans, and papaya salad by Phet Phet Somtam

Grilled Pork Neck with Dipping Sauce

The meal started with a serving of grilled pork neck. The pork was super juicy with a very flavorful savory Issan-style marinade. The platter was served with several dipping sauces, including the iconic nam jim jaew, a spicy, savory, and mildly sweet sauce noted for its distinctive smoky notes which is often served with northeastern Thai grilled meat dishes.

grilled pork neck by Phet Phet Somtam, Bangkok, Thailand
grilled pork neck by Phet Phet Somtam, Bangkok, Thailand

Battered and Fried Enoki Mushrooms

Another great side dish are battered and deep-fried enoki. Though not particularly Thai, these "pin mushrooms" are a fantastic accompaniment to any meal. Though sometimes fried mushrooms can become a little slimy, these had a perfect texture with a super crispy batter. The mushrooms are served with three dipping sauces: chili sauce, sweet chili sauce, and tartar sauce, each of which offer a unique and delicious combination.

crispy fried enoki pin mushrooms with dipping sauce
crispy fried enoki pin mushrooms with dipping sauce

Green Bean Somtam with The World's Crispiest Pork Belly

I'm a huge fan of crispy pork belly, and I have finally found what I believe may be the absolute moo krob in the world (and that's saying something!). This dish is made from green beans, tomato, a spicy sour dressing, and a boiled egg topped with a generous portion of crispy pork. Now, it's hard to mess up crispy pork, but sometimes it can be too soft, chewy, or fatty. Not so here! There wasn't a single chewy spot on any piece of moo krop, making it the absolute crispiest pork belly I've ever had. Satisfyingly crunchy and perfectly cooked, this is the dish that keeps me coming back to Phed Phed again and again.

Issan crispy pork belly with green bean salad (the best moo krob in Bangkok!)
Issan crispy pork belly with green bean salad (the best moo krob in Bangkok!)

Crispy Fish and Strawberry Salad

If you want something a bit stranger, I recommend this crispy fish and fresh strawberry yum (mixed spicy salad). The salty crunch of the fish gives a really unique savory taste and satisfying texture to the fresh, sweet strawberries, and the salad is tossed in a dressing of fish sauce, lime, and palm sugar. It's not for everyone; if you aren't used to some of the more extreme Thai flavor combos like fish, sugar, and fruit, it might seem a bit odd, but trust me, it's worth trying.

northeastern Thai crispy fish and strawberry salad
northeastern Thai crispy fish and strawberry salad

Grilled Sticky Rice Waffle

Most Issan restaurants serve their dishes with khao niao, or sticky rice. At Phed Phed, however, you can get something arguably even better: sticky rice waffles! Tear off a piece of the grilled sticky rice, which is crispy on the outside with the typical sweet, soft sticky rice interior, and dip it into the spicy, sour dressing to soak up all the delicious som tam flavors.

grilled sticky rice waffle
grilled sticky rice waffle

Location

Phed Phed has a few locations in Bangkok, but the one that I went to was Phed Phed Cafe located on the 4th floor of Central Ladphrao shopping mall. The mall is located near MRT Phahonyothin Station and BTS 5 Yaek Ladphrao station at เซ็นทรัล ลาดพร้าว ชั้น4 เลขที่ 1693 Phahonyothin Rd, Chatuchak, Bangkok 10900.

Phet Phet Somtam's branch at Central Ladphrao shopping mall
Phet Phet Cafe's branch at Central Ladphrao shopping mall

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